OldTools Archive
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72319 | aab1@d... | 1999‑12‑13 | Introduction |
Howdy, I've only been lurking for couple weeks, but figured it was time to introduce myself: My name is Andy Birko, and judging from the "galoot pattern baldness" on my left forearm, I think I would be kidding only myself to claim I'm not at least part galoot (although I would consider myself a reformed galoot due to the many tails in my shop). I got (re-) interested in woodworking about 4 or 5 years ago to go along with my cigar smoking hobby. Although I built plenty of balsa models as a kid, I didn't really work with any harder woods until my first humidor about 4 years ago. After that, Normy fueled my lust for power. After a few years of collecting apprentices (and hand tools, but mostly due to economics, not desire) I read an article on sharpening in FWW...it changed my life. Once I figured out how to sharpen my chisels, I realized that they weren't junk. Since then my collection has been growing. For my birthday, my wife picked me up an L-N # 2 and it fixed me for good. I soon learned that for the work I was doing I could either spend five minutes with the sharp plane, or spend a day building a jig for my rapidly spinning tool of the devil to do it in one second. Now, don't get me wrong, I still use these devices, but as I alluded to before, my goal is to become a renaissance woodworker, using the best technique for the job. I've continued collecting and using hand tools (old and new, my latest being a #606 in o.k. shape: Plopped a Hock iron on it and it just melts the wood away now) since my epiphany. In fact, on my latest project, a tool cabinet, the only sandpaper I used is to sharpen irons to commemorate my learning to turn a hook on a scraper. Anyhow, two main reasons for this note. One: For the past year, I've turned my focus toward lutherie (if that term is not guitar specific). To be specific, I build a Ukrainian instrument called the Bandura (for more info, check out www.bandura.org, I'll have my own web site in a few weeks). The bandura has a very large soundboard that's under a lot of stress. Ideally, once strung, the soundboard should be flat. An experienced builder gave me the advice of making the soundboard slightly convex (like a giant contact lens) so that it straightens out under tension. On his instruments, he makes the center of the soundboard about 2mm higher that the edges....not much! So I figure I can use either my block or #2 to carve the convex part, but what about the concave part on the opposite side? (He also springs the underside bracing in addition to the carving) Woodcraft is selling a kakuri brand wooden block plane for $24.99. For that price, I can experiment with making the sole convex to follow the inner curve. Would this be the way to go, or will my regular block plane suffice? Topic number two: Stanley #53? (I think it's a #53, I meant to bring the # to work but forgot) spokeshave. This thing is a spokeshave with an adjustable toe (for depth, kind of like a tailed planer). The thing works just wonderfully and I was wondering if they're rare or something because I've never seen another one. Nice porch you guys have here. -Andy Birko |
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72320 | "Kelly Cox" <cox@n...> | 1999‑12‑13 | RE: Introduction |
Welcome, Andy! Yeah, the Porch is a great place... you asked about the belly of a bandura: > The bandura has a very large soundboard that's under a lot of stress. > Ideally, once strung, the soundboard should be flat. An experienced > builder gave me the advice of making the soundboard slightly > convex (like a > giant contact lens) so that it straightens out under tension. On his > instruments, he makes the center of the soundboard about 2mm higher that > the edges....not much! So I figure I can use either my block or #2 to > carve the convex part, but what about the concave part on the opposite > side? (He also springs the underside bracing in addition to the carving) > > Woodcraft is selling a kakuri brand wooden block plane for $24.99. For > that price, I can experiment with making the sole convex to follow the > inner curve. Would this be the way to go, or will my regular block plane > suffice? A few weeks ago, BugBear gave us some formulas for planing something flat: >switching symbols, where P is length of plane, B is length of board, S is set of plane |
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72323 | "Generations Furniture" <genfurn@e...> | 1999‑12‑13 | Re: Introduction |
Hi Andy, Welcome to the porch. Lots of fun to be had, lots of knowledge available, and plenty of friendship, providing you stay on topic. Otherwise, lots of spittoon polishing. Yup, I've polished my share of the brass. (grin) You asked: (snippage, per FAQ) > Topic number two: Stanley #53? (I think it's a #53, I meant to bring the # > to work but forgot) spokeshave. The thing works > just wonderfully and I was wondering if they're rare or something because > I've never seen another one. Not particularly rare, but not too common in my experience. And you're right, they work just great. There is also the #54 which has straight handles. Hope that helps, at least a little. Bruce Z. |
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72321 | ralph.brendler@a... (Ralph Brendler) | 1999‑12‑13 | Re: Introduction |
Kelly Cox writes about planing a 2mm "sag" into the soundboard of a bandura: [snip] >Using a #9-1/2 block plane (which has a 6.25" sole length) and assuming that >the belly of the bandura is 2 feet long, to produce a .080" 'sag' (which is >roughly 2 mm) requires a set on your block plane of .005". Not unreasonable! > >So the answer is, you should be able to plane the desired hollow with a >standard block plane. In theory this would work, but I'm not sure if it would in practice (I know-- in theory there's no difference b/w theory and practice |
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72324 | "Kelly Cox" <cox@n...> | 1999‑12‑13 | RE: Introduction |
Of course, you could also use the bandura soundboard as an excuse to buy another tool! I'd go for one of those work-of-art Laarman violin makers' planes. ;-> What Ralph is proposing sounds a lot more sensible than my approach (using a block plane). Although I typically plane a piece hollow with a light set using the aforementioned technique (to make sure that I'm not planing it convex) I don't typically work with thin stock. Ralph, as the Porch's Shaker box expert, does a lot of this sort of work. Regards, Kelly Cox Madison, WI |
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72377 | aab1@d... | 1999‑12‑14 | Re: Introduction |
Thanks for the advice. I was already figuring I'd be finishing up with a scraper. I already have a French curve type of scraper, but figured one with a more gradual arc would probably work better. And now to demonstrate my severe ignorance: What is and where can I procure a toothing plane? -Andy *************** In theory this would work, but I'm not sure if it would in practice (I know-- in theory there's no difference b/w theory and practice |
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