OldTools Archive
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34395 | alan ferrency <alan@s...> | 1998‑01‑14 | Greetings from a budding Galoot |
I've decided to de-lurk. My most recent old tool finds have been Stanley #4 and #5c planes. On a particularly lucrative yard sale day in the Fall, we came to One Last Yardsale, even though SWMBO and I had only managed to scrounge $2.70 in change off the car floor after running out of cash on our previous (non-tool) purchases. Of course, this was the place that had all the planes. There were about 4 or 5 smooth planes about the same size as a #4, of various makes, and some really nasty looking block planes. All had been sitting out in a damp garage and had rust, but some looked fairly good underneath. To make a long story short, I got the nice Stanley #4 (along with a Sliva compass) for $2.70. The bad news was, I hadn't read the OldTools FAQ yet, and committed a major Faux Pas by wire wheeling the sole of the plane "since it's only a $2.70 plane anyway, and I need to get the rust off." I never finished getting all that crackling japanning off, and have since decided it would be better to find some other way to remove the rest of the rust. The plane looks to me to be a type 19, same as the one I inherited from Grandpa. This past weekend I found a Stanley #5c at a consignment antiques shop in Burnt Cabins, PA (there are more planes and other antique tools there, by the way). It had $25 on it. I asked the worker there, "Do you haggle?" and got an instant 10% off. Lesson: always ask, it can't hurt! That's what I get for growing up in New England. Most consignment shops have some sort of discounting/haggling policy in place. The #5c is in okay shape, definitely useable but not perfect. It has a bit of the tote cracked off, and someone had dropped the corner of the plane on something pointy, leaving a dent that protrudes beyond the sole at the corner. Does anyone have reccommendations for removing this bit of raised metal? Should I leave it there and not plane anything full-width, or is it okay to file/grind/sand that bit down to make it a more useful tool? The plane seems to be a type 9, but it might be a type 10, I don't have enough experience looking at frogs yet to know. (It has 2 patent dates and no frog adjusting screw, does that make it type 9?) I recently saw a two headed spokeshave that looked very similar to Stanley's #60 (in retrospect), but didn't seem to have any maker's marks. Is Stanley the only manufacturer of this (what I consider) odd-looking spokeshave? The blade holders had a sort of crosshatched pattern on them and the whole thing seemed to be japanned black. What else might it be? Alan |
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34406 | Bill Clouser <clouser@p...> | 1998‑01‑14 | Re: Greetings from a budding Galoot |
alan ferrency wrote: > > I've decided to de-lurk. Welcome! But that statement is often followed by a bio. You know: name rank and serial number types of stuff. Many good examples may be found on the website under the "Galoots" button. > On a particularly lucrative yard sale day in the Fall, we came to One > Last Yardsale, even though SWMBO and I had only managed to scrounge > $2.70 in change off the car floor after running out of cash > To make a long story short, I got > the nice Stanley #4 (along with a Sliva compass) for $2.70. Funny how that seems to work isn't it? Only had $2.70, found tons of planes, spent $2.70 on one of them, wish I'd had more ... > > The bad news was, I hadn't read the OldTools FAQ yet, and committed a > major Faux Pas by wire wheeling the sole of the plane "since it's only > a $2.70 plane anyway, and I need to get the rust off." Oops. Maybe some QuickLapping with the old AlZ paper will fix that little slip up. > I never > finished getting all that crackling japanning off, What for? > and have since > decided it would be better to find some other way to remove the rest > of the rust. Look up all the electrolysis stuff we've discussed. > The plane looks to me to be a type 19, same as the one I > inherited from Grandpa. Ah ha! Perfect bio fodder! > > This past weekend I found a Stanley #5c at a consignment antiques shop > in Burnt Cabins, PA > The #5c is in okay shape, definitely useable but not perfect. It has > a bit of the tote cracked off, and someone had dropped the corner of > the plane on something pointy, leaving a dent that protrudes beyond > the sole at the corner. Does anyone have reccommendations for > removing this bit of raised metal? Should I leave it there and not > plane anything full-width, or is it okay to file/grind/sand that bit > down to make it a more useful tool? File it off, and plane full width. - Bill |
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34476 | alan ferrency <alan@s...> | 1998‑01‑15 | Re: Greetings from a budding galoot |
> > I never finished getting all that crackling japanning off, > > What for? Well... "It seemed like a good idea at the time?" Much of it was peeling very badly and had rust under it. I thought a wire wheel would be a quite efficient method for removing the whole mess. It was, but (luckily) it couldn't reach most of the interior of the top of the sole. I didn't stop to think the plane had more value than the few dollars I put into it, and figured I wasn't going to make it unusable in any case. I have since learned the error of my ways. > > decided it would be better to find some other way to remove the rest > > of the rust. > > Look up all the electrolysis stuff we've discussed. Well, since I haven't even tried mineral spirits and a tooth brush, I think I'll start with that. At the time I thought, "There must be a better way," but it didn't occur to me to check online. Alan |
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