OldTools Archive

Recent Bios FAQ

266846 RH <rhhutchins@h...> 2018‑10‑21 Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale
With guidance from the Galooterati, last Spring I was able to de-rust a 
5 gal. bucket of old horseshoes to my satisfaction.  Now I'm having 
trouble with smaller batches of rusty metal.  I have these adjustable 
marking gauges (thanks Ed!) that need a bit of cleaning.  I've 
disassembled them placing the screw, spring and pin in an empty tuna 
can.  I then placed the ruler on edge crosswise in a plastic container 
just long enough to allow that then laid the upright traveler piece on 
its side, not touching the ruler, in one corner and the can of small 
bits in the opposite corner.  None of the 3 pieces to be de-rusted touch 
one another but they are not suspended either.  The ruler blade, 
traveler, and small parts tuna can each have a spring clip with copper 
wire soldered and clipped on each piece.  I have 2 short rebar pieces 
with a single piece of copper wire with clips attached and clipped to 
the rebar.  The positive (+) lead from my old time battery charger is 
clipped to the wire running to the rebar.  The negative (-) lead from 
the charger connects to the 3 copper leads that have been twisted 
together.  The container hold a little less than a gallon of water to 
which I added a tablespoon and a scosh of soda carbonate washing powder.

I'm having no success after 2 overnight soaks with the battery charger 
set for a 12 volt 6 amp charge.  What are the likely causes of my 
failure?  Do the pieces have to be suspended such that no part touches 
the sides of the container?  Do I have the polarity correct (positive to 
sacrificial rebar and negative to pieces to be de-rusted)?

I checked all my fittings before the second attempt.  I'm seeking your 
input before I let the parts soak overnight tonight.

Thanks for your advice;

Bob Hutchins
Temple, TX (a southwestern US state, Jeff)
266847 Matt Cooper <MaNoCooper@l...> 2018‑10‑21 Re: Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale
I believe that the parts need to have a straight line of sight to the rear. You
may have better luck with a wire basket than a can. I always struggle with
smaller parts.



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S8.


-------- Original message --------
From: RH 
Date: 10/21/18 15:34 (GMT-05:00)
To: oldtools@s...
Subject: [OldTools] Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale

With guidance from the Galooterati, last Spring I was able to de-rust a
5 gal. bucket of old horseshoes to my satisfaction.  Now I'm having
trouble with smaller batches of rusty metal.  I have these adjustable
marking gauges (thanks Ed!) that need a bit of cleaning.  I've
disassembled them placing the screw, spring and pin in an empty tuna
can.  I then placed the ruler on edge crosswise in a plastic container
just long enough to allow that then laid the upright traveler piece on
its side, not touching the ruler, in one corner and the can of small
bits in the opposite corner.  None of the 3 pieces to be de-rusted touch
one another but they are not suspended either.  The ruler blade,
traveler, and small parts tuna can each have a spring clip with copper
wire soldered and clipped on each piece.  I have 2 short rebar pieces
with a single piece of copper wire with clips attached and clipped to
the rebar.  The positive (+) lead from my old time battery charger is
clipped to the wire running to the rebar.  The negative (-) lead from
the charger connects to the 3 copper leads that have been twisted
together.  The container hold a little less than a gallon of water to
which I added a tablespoon and a scosh of soda carbonate washing powder.

I'm having no success after 2 overnight soaks with the battery charger
set for a 12 volt 6 amp charge.  What are the likely causes of my
failure?  Do the pieces have to be suspended such that no part touches
the sides of the container?  Do I have the polarity correct (positive to
sacrificial rebar and negative to pieces to be de-rusted)?

I checked all my fittings before the second attempt.  I'm seeking your
input before I let the parts soak overnight tonight.

Thanks for your advice;

Bob Hutchins
Temple, TX (a southwestern US state, Jeff)

------------------------------------------------------------------------
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aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage,
value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of
traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools.

To change your subscription options:
https://oldtools.swingleydev.com/mailman/listinfo/oldtools

To read the FAQ:
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OldTools@s...
266848 Brent Kinsey <brentpmed@c...> 2018‑10‑21 Re: Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale
Bob,
Polarity is correct as written. 

Should be more than enough soda for that amount of water. 

One thing I might try would be to wire brush a spot in the rebar where your
connections are to make sure they are connecting well.

Are you getting any bubbles?

One other thing I have heard( but not experienced) is that on some chargers
there is a safety which won’t allow them to charge unless there is something
drawing amperage. Some advocated putting a battery in the circuit to start the
draw, or finding a charger without that safety feature. I don’t know if this
applies to yours or not.

Sent from my iPhone
Brent Kinsey
266849 RH <rhhutchins@h...> 2018‑10‑21 Re: Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale
Thanks, Brent!

First, the water is a turgid gray color.  I don't see any bubbles.  I 
did brush the rebar a bit and the ruler and square shoulder where I 
attached the clips.  Maybe I'll put a multimeter on it see if it reads 
anything.  If the charger is set for 12 volts  6 amps and it is 
presumably DC (charger wouldn't put AC into a battery would it?) I 
should be able to get a reading if there is a circuit created.

I did not have to do anything different when setting up a 5 gallon 
bucket for the horseshoes, but I did use 4 pieces of rebar instead of 2.

I'll let it 'cook' tonight and check for current tomorrow and report back.

bh
266850 Matt Cooper <MaNoCooper@l...> 2018‑10‑21 Re: Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale
Rebar not rear.



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S8.


-------- Original message --------
From: Matt Cooper 
Date: 10/21/18 16:49 (GMT-05:00)
To: RH , oldtools@s...
Subject: Re: [OldTools] Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale

I believe that the parts need to have a straight line of sight to the rear. You
may have better luck with a wire basket than a can. I always struggle with
smaller parts.



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S8.


-------- Original message --------
From: RH 
Date: 10/21/18 15:34 (GMT-05:00)
To: oldtools@s...
Subject: [OldTools] Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale

With guidance from the Galooterati, last Spring I was able to de-rust a
5 gal. bucket of old horseshoes to my satisfaction.  Now I'm having
trouble with smaller batches of rusty metal.  I have these adjustable
marking gauges (thanks Ed!) that need a bit of cleaning.  I've
disassembled them placing the screw, spring and pin in an empty tuna
can.  I then placed the ruler on edge crosswise in a plastic container
just long enough to allow that then laid the upright traveler piece on
its side, not touching the ruler, in one corner and the can of small
bits in the opposite corner.  None of the 3 pieces to be de-rusted touch
one another but they are not suspended either.  The ruler blade,
traveler, and small parts tuna can each have a spring clip with copper
wire soldered and clipped on each piece.  I have 2 short rebar pieces
with a single piece of copper wire with clips attached and clipped to
the rebar.  The positive (+) lead from my old time battery charger is
clipped to the wire running to the rebar.  The negative (-) lead from
the charger connects to the 3 copper leads that have been twisted
together.  The container hold a little less than a gallon of water to
which I added a tablespoon and a scosh of soda carbonate washing powder.

I'm having no success after 2 overnight soaks with the battery charger
set for a 12 volt 6 amp charge.  What are the likely causes of my
failure?  Do the pieces have to be suspended such that no part touches
the sides of the container?  Do I have the polarity correct (positive to
sacrificial rebar and negative to pieces to be de-rusted)?

I checked all my fittings before the second attempt.  I'm seeking your
input before I let the parts soak overnight tonight.

Thanks for your advice;

Bob Hutchins
Temple, TX (a southwestern US state, Jeff)

------------------------------------------------------------------------
OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage,
value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of
traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools.

To change your subscription options:
https://oldtools.swingleydev.com/mailman/listinfo/oldtools

To read the FAQ:
https://swingleydev.com/archive/faq.html

OldTools archive: https://swingleydev.com/ot/

OldTools@s...
------------------------------------------------------------------------
OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage,
value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of
traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools.

To change your subscription options:
https://oldtools.swingleydev.com/mailman/listinfo/oldtools

To read the FAQ:
https://swingleydev.com/archive/faq.html

OldTools archive: https://swingleydev.com/ot/

OldTools@s...
266851 John Ruth <johnrruth@h...> 2018‑10‑21 Re: Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale
GG’s:

One neat trick for keeping the workpiece(s) from shorting to the anode is to use
plastic window screening as an insulator.  The ions can pass right through the
plastic screen; it does not interfere with the “line of sight.”

John Ruth

Sent from my iPhone
266852 scott grandstaff <scottg@s...> 2018‑10‑22 Re: Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale
You are first going to have to check if your power supply is really 
putting out
  Sounds like maybe you got no apms
Check fuse?
Some of them have fuses and sometimes they're hidden?

If the cables spark hard and hot........
(oh alright, so kill me, brush them together a second and check you got 
spark Its not going to hairlip the governor. its 12 volts)

If you do have hot spark

  Either your cable is broken or the clip is not getting good contact
or your soup is incorrect.
About 1/2 cup in 5 gallons of washing or baking soda
You should be able to see through it and you need to see a fine stream 
of tiny but steady bubbles rising, or you are going nowhere
  yours Scott

-- 
*******************************
    Scott Grandstaff
    Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca  96039
    scottg@s...
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html
266853 Mick Dowling <spacelysprocket@b...> 2018‑10‑22 Re: Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale
GGs

Here's the go to article about electrolytic rust removal on the HTPAA
website. http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php

I've tried baking soda, but I reckon washing soda works a lot quicker.

Mick Dowling
Melbourne
Member, Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia Inc.


On 22/10/18, 7:49 pm, "scott grandstaff"  wrote:

> You are first going to have to check if your power supply is really 
putting
> out
  Sounds like maybe you got no apms
Check fuse?
Some of them have fuses
> and sometimes they're hidden?

If the cables spark hard and hot........
(oh
> alright, so kill me, brush them together a second and check you got 
spark Its
> not going to hairlip the governor. its 12 volts)

If you do have hot spark


>  Either your cable is broken or the clip is not getting good contact
or your
> soup is incorrect.
About 1/2 cup in 5 gallons of washing or baking soda
You
> should be able to see through it and you need to see a fine stream 
of tiny
> but steady bubbles rising, or you are going nowhere
  yours Scott

--
> 
*******************************
    Scott Grandstaff
    Box 409 Happy Camp,
> Ca  96039
    scottg@s...

> http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/

> http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html

----------------------------
> --------------------------------------------
OldTools is a mailing list
> catering to the interests of hand tool
aficionados, both collectors and users,
> to discuss the history, usage,
value, location, availability, collectibility,
> and restoration of
traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools.

To
> change your subscription
> options:
https://oldtools.swingleydev.com/mailman/listinfo/oldtools

To read
> the FAQ:
https://swingleydev.com/archive/faq.html

OldTools archive:
> https://swingleydev.com/ot/

OldTools@s...
266855 Kirk Eppler <eppler.kirk@g...> 2018‑10‑22 Re: Electrolysis on a Smaller Scale
I'm not following your set up completely. Is the tuna can blocking the line
of sight between parts and sacrificial metal?  That will really slow things
down.

If polarity is reversed, you'll build up crud on your sacrificial metal.

And washing soda >> baking soda.

Kirk in HMB


On Mon, Oct 22, 2018, 2:20 AM Mick Dowling 
wrote:

Recent Bios FAQ